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RJD32 |
Dial Indicator Setting Standard |
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I have been in the process of making my own tools over the course of the summer including forms, binder, beveller, dial indicator depth gauge base, etc. How
difficult is it to make a dial indicator setting standard, and what is the process involved? Thanks.
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Tom Smithwick |
Dial indicator standard | #1 | ||
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The easiest thing to do is to get a small block of steel with a flat surface, mount it in a drill press, then drill and ream an exact .125 diameter hole in
the center. Remove any burr from the edge of the hole by dressing the steel on a flat stone. When you put the 60° indicator point in the hole, the indicator
should read .108. Always use the standard gently to avoid putting a radius in the edge of the hole, and keep it in a safe place.
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ShenRods |
#2 | |||
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Actually you do not need a standard - you have one already - your dial caliper. My EZ-Cal article details how to use it - just set the jaws opening to .100" and set the point in and it should read .0866". Tony Spezio did a variation of this and you set the opening to .116" and the dial should read .100". Everyone should have a good quality dial caliper if nothing else. I have a collection of so-called standards - all of them are off. Normally it is a just a hole drilled, milled V or a set of rods that supposed to yield a set result. Easier said then done. I bring them out to show the students who invariable ask about one or the other and I let them try them and save some money. The dial caliper method is quickest. If you are a machinist and have a set of gauge blocks - that will work nicely also. Chris |
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grizzly |
#3 | |||
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darn, thats a great tip chris. shows it pays to look in on this board once in a while. see you in the catskills , and no i wont be in the bunk house so ear
plug sales wont be needed !
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john channer |
#4 | |||
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RJ;
This subject comes up at least once or twice a year. The short answer is, use one if it makes you feel better, but if you take any kind of care at all of your indicator point you don't need one, zeroing it on top of your forms works just as well. You don't measure the strips and rod sections with the indicator anyway, so pay more attention to the actual measurements of your strips than anything else. john |
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FlyDoctor |
Standards | #5 | ||
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Depending on your calipers Chris' method may or may not work--I gave up in frustration trying to do it with mine. The small digital calipers just don't
seem to have a large enough flat surface at the jaws to give a reliable, repeatable setting. Finally I was gifted a standard like that described by Tom and I
get totally repeatable settings each and every time--Larry
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kimk |
Standards | #6 | ||
I like to make stuff myself, so I had to make my own standard. The trick is to determine the depth of the standard. I used a drill rod from McMaster-Carr.
The 1/8 inch drill rod is speced at +0.0000"/ -0,0002". I assumed it was a perfect 1/8" ( 0.125"). Since the height of an equilateral
triangle is 1 1/2 the diameter of a circle inscribed in that triangle, by measuring the the height of the dowel above ( or below) the surface of the standard
with a micrometer ( or depth mic.) one can calculate the depth theoretical "v" groove described by the sides of the "v" groove. Since the
actual bottom is not a true, perfect point, and since the measurements are determined by the seating of the dial indicator on the sides of the standard ( or
planing form) there is a hole drilled in the center of the standard for the dial indicator point to set into.
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canerodscom |
#7 | |||
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I have several standards for sale, made from surface ground steel bars, with .100" deep grooves precision machined in each. Cost is $45 plus shipping.
Contact me if interested.
Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
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Tom Smithwick |
Dial indicator standard | #8 | ||
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KIMK - That is a nice looking piece of work, and that kind of standard is the most reliable. However, you need to be sure of not just the depth reading, but
also that the angle is exactly correct. Both Chris and myself have had the experience of buying one of these, only to find out that commercial machinists think
that if you get the angles on a part within a couple degrees, that is OK. We need the angle of the "V" groove to be an exact 60° for the device to be
of any use.
It's easy to check that by the drill rod method. Get two rods, one that sits low in the groove, barely protruding over the surface and a larger one that sits higher in the groove. If the angle is correct you will calculate the same depth with both rods. This is not to suggest that you got it wrong, as it looks to me that you did careful work, but others should be aware of the potential problem. Regardless of what method you use, you should write down your measurements, and compare them later to the finished rods dimensions. That's the only way to really get control of your process. |
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Tom Smithwick |
Dial indicator standard | #9 | ||
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Sorry about that Harry. We posted at about the same time. Nothing I wrote was meant to imply that you could not trust Harry to get this right.
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fishbum |
#10 | |||
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Use two 3/8 pins set in a fixture side by side.
If you use a pair of 3/8" drill blanks you will get a depth of 0.137259". The tolerance on drill blanks is +0.0000", -0.0009". The worst case would be 0.136929". If you use 3/8" ground dowel pins that are -0.0002" you will get a depth of 0.137332". Using the nominal value of either the drill blank or the dowel pins will give you accuracy better than what is needed for a setting gage. Note for those who think the above isn't accurate enough for their rod making. You can get a pair of 0.375" pin gages with the following specs: Class X Tolerance (+0.00004", -0.0000") Finish (0.000002") Roundness within (0.00002") fishbum |
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kimk |
#11 | |||
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Tom, Thanks for the idea of using the two different diameter drill rods. Simple, beautiful and elegant. I am ashamed that I did not think of it. I finished out
the groove with a 60* stone which I checked with a thread gauge and checked the groove with the thread gauge, but that is of course eyeball work and I always
had my doubts. My next order to McMaster will include another drill rod.
Thanks again AgMD |
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canerodscom |
#12 | |||
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LOL Tom,
No problem. These were made by rodmaker Barry Grantham in England. Barry is a master machinist as well as a fine rodmaker, and I can assure everyone that these are correct. Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
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