how to make a primary taper jig

0 Kudo

Author	Comment
jmacy	how to make a primary taper jig		Lead	[-]
Posts: 3 08/14/2008 19:09	Tags : None How do I get a 571/2 angle on a wooden jig use a router or table saw for a hex rod any recomendations on depth
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
BigTJ		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 491 08/15/2008 13:32	Most table saws have a blade angle setting. If your's doesn't, use one of those carpenter's tools to set the angle. Or you could do the math with a pencil on a heavy square piece of cardboard and cut it to make a guide with a razor knife. Once you get your blade angle set, run the board on your saw. BE CAREFUL!!! A push stick and guarding against kickback is hugely important with small pieced of wood. Fingerboards to hold the other side of the wood would be a really, really good idea. You are going to have to figure out the depth for yourself based on the depth you want for the finished product, in other words...."it depends". Good luck, -John
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
thegubster		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1331 08/15/2008 14:18	BigTJ wrote: Most table saws have a blade angle setting. If your's doesn't, use one of those carpenter's tools to set the angle. Or you could do the math with a pencil on a heavy square piece of cardboard and cut it to make a guide with a razor knife. Once you get your blade angle set, run the board on your saw. BE CAREFUL!!! A push stick and guarding against kickback is hugely important with small pieced of wood. Fingerboards to hold the other side of the wood would be a really, really good idea. You are going to have to figure out the depth for yourself based on the depth you want for the finished product, in other words...."it depends". Good luck, -John Yep...what John said! Remember to NEVER trap any piece of work under the blade and against the fence when the blade is tilted. Depending on which way your blade tilts, the fence needs to be away from the angle so the workpiece is on top of the blade. Use a large piece of stock to keep your hands clear. Meat cutters are wicked.
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
Tom Smithwick	First angle jig	#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 419 08/16/2008 10:08	My advice on making a first angle jig is don't do it. It's much harder to hold the strip in those things when planing, and you beat up your hands for nothing. Just use a "V" groove that is made by running a board through a router table with a 60° bit. Go for a depth of about .300. This type of form will hold the strip much better. Yes, you will start planing at the wrong angle, but if you alternate sides of the strip after every third pass, the angles will quickly correct themselves. I no longer hold any strip by hand, it's just too hard on the body after a while. If I were starting out again, I would make a slash jig for the first angle. It looks like the best option short of buying or making a rough bevelling machine. http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/Gizmos/index.html
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
canetuck	Slash jig	#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 12 08/17/2008 16:25	Google search max rod craft, and check out the rough planing form made out of a 2x4. Jason
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
BigTJ		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 495 08/17/2008 16:51	I agree with Tom 100%. I found the primary angle a pain in the butt to use. In fact for rough tapering I just use my planing forms. I just make a few passes then flip back and forth. Before you know it the 60 degree just kind of works itself in. I am going to buy a beveller soon though so my rough planing days are about over (thankfully!).
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote
jmacy	thanks	#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4 08/26/2008 21:20	Tom - your suggestion worked like a dream! I made a test strip of nodeless boo and actually made a decent taper using 2 different depths. The bamboo cut like butter and the test peice came out looking great. Now on to final setting on the steel forms. I have been carefully using Cattach's suggestions on making the taper on my set of 72" forms trying to achieve .025 to .090 tip side and .070 to .150 on the butt side using a file and a lathe threading tool. been setting a common distance on the push pull then gradually cranking it down - any good tips appreciated!
Interact My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Invite Blocking Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Reply Quote

<< Previous Topic Next Topic >>

Yuku free message boards

how to make a primary taper jig

how to make a primary taper jig

Quick Reply